Toe-Up Sock Knit-Along Beginning.
(go here for introductory posts and comments before starting) 

Using Judy’s Magic Cast-On…
Cast-on for your toe-up socks.

How many stitches should I cast-on, you may ask?

You will discover throughout this KAL that I rarely ever offer specific numbers in my patterns. I dislike formulas. I prefer to knit as I go making determinations based on how the piece is fitting.

So the number of stitches you cast-on will need to be determined by you as you consider for whom you are making the socks and what will fit those feet best.

For the above photographed socks, I cast on 20 stitches per needle. This is because I am using teeny-tiny sock yarn and teeny-tiny sock needles.

Typically if I use size 5 needles and worsted weight yarn I cast on 12 stitches per needle.

But even this depends on the foot. My KAL socks are being knit for Chris, my husband. He has long narrow feet. I normally start with a very narrow toe accordingly. My own feet are not as long and much wider than his…so even with the same needles and same yarn, I’d start out with more stitches in the cast-on. My socks fit best if I start with a more boxy toe — and his fit better with a more pointy one.

If you are knitting these toe-up socks one at a time, then just cast-on for the one sock and Knit one round.

If you are knitting 2@AT socks, then cast-on each sock, on the same set of needles — but each sock from a separate skein/ball/cake of yarn. Then Knit one round on each sock. AKA – Knit a SET.

Nomenclature alert: I call it a round when I’m knitting one item in the round. When I am doing 2@AT I call it a ‘set.’

I prefer to keep one cake of yarn on my right side and one on my left. It is far easier to keep them from tangling in this way. Do not move the cakes around. Pay attention to the strand going down to the cakes — and move them over or around your working needles so as to get them out of your way. Initially this may seem ‘fiddly’ and time-consuming. But once you find a method that works for you, it won’t slow you down at all.

Increases

Round 1 (increase): *K1, M1 (I use knit front and back), K to the last 2 stitches on the needle, M1, K1*

repeat that sequence on each of the needles — that means you are increasing by 2 stitches per needle — 4 stitches per sock on each increase round.

Round 2: Knit

Alternate R1 & R2 until the ‘toe hat’ is the width you wish.

How many increase rounds might this take for other socks?
It depends…as usual.

I have found it useful to continue with the increases until the ‘toe hat’ comfortable covers from the outside of the big toe to just before the baby toe. If I go further than that, then the resultant sock can be too baggy.

Knitting the Foot

Once you’ve done all the increases at the toe, you just Knit all rounds/sets until the sock reaches the instep of the foot.

This is a great time to work on your handling of the strands coming from the two cakes. It is easy knitting. It is not complicated or complex — but if you are making adult socks with teeny-tiny sock yarn/needles…it can take a while…a long while.

Next post — gusset construction

Fruit Salad gloves–what I’ve been making whilst Whinnie convalesces.

Tuesday I finished another pair of 2@a-time socks using my newly-developed Super Easy Socks method.

These I made for me…And now I can say that they fit great!

So now I’m ready to launch the Super Easy Sock Knit-Along…um, almost….

This beautiful girl (in her mama-knit sweater!) is sick today. As soon as she starts holding down fluids & foods I’ll cast on & the game will be afoot.

Allons-y!

Yes, that is a full-size sock using the ‘super easy sock’ method that I’ve been developing.

It has taken just a bit of trial & error to get all the right details together. BUT it is coming together & it is (if I may seem so bold) brilliant.

This method combines all that I love about toe-up with what I like about cuff-down AND makes it easy-peasy to boot.

No:
- picking up stitches
- no heel flap requiring purling
- no required decreasing

And yet, a great fitting sock.

As soon as I make certain of the steps, we’ll start the KAL!

This little sock is why I haven’t begun our Sock Knit-Along yet.

I had an idea of a better, less-complicated, more streamline way of knitting socks.
I am experimenting currently to see if it works.

The red sock was knitted from heavy worsted yarn in #8 needles–very quick.
So now I know the concept works–but I need to test knit one in an adult size.

If this works you will LOVE IT!

Everyone test knitting? watching the videos? trying out those new skills?

Any questions?

Me? I’m finishing up two other projects (slippers for a child, gloves for hubby) and then I’m going to cake up those luscious skeins and start knitting the socks for this KAL.

Loving these most recent creations!

2@

Mindful Knitting Flickr Page — come show your work!

Getting Everything Ready:
Supplies, Skills & Tutorials

Magic Loop Knitting

Magic Loop is simply a way to use one (longish) circular needle instead of double pointed needles or two circular needles. This method allows you to do what’s called ‘small diameter’ circular knitting. How small? I have no problem knitting thumbs for kids’ mittens using Magic Loop.
Click on the red link above to view the video I used to learn this method.

Why learn this new skill?
For me it was a matter of frugality. Instead of needing both straight and double-pointed needles in each size and some additional circular needles in specific sizes — one set of interchangeable circulars and a few fixed ‘sock knitting’ needle sizes and I have everything I need.
One set of circular needles can do it all; straight knitting, large-diameter and small diameter (with Magic Loop) circular knitting.

Judy’s Magic Cast-On
‘Magic Cast-on’ is exactly how I feel about this skill. Judy Becker developed this technique that allows one to start a sock right at the toe, without a seam. This creates what I call a ‘toe hat.’
Watch this video by Cat Bordhi several times and try it out with some scrap yarn you have. It can seem complicated to get the hang of in the beginning. And you might be completely convinced that you’re not doing it right because it doesn’t look anything like a ‘toe hat’ at first. You need to knit a bunch of rows to see it beginning to shape. How many? Depends on the weight of yarn/size of needle you’re using. Just keep knitting — you’ll know when it is coming together.

Remaining Steps
The rest of these require no tutorial or special skill, just knitting and purling.
- heel flap creation
- short row wraps/turning a heel
- picking up and knitting stitches
- increases and decreases
- ribbing
- stretchy bind-off @ cuff

Supplies

What weight yarn and what size/length needle do you need?

You can work with any weight yarn you like. For the purposes of this KAL I recommend thicker yarn — worsted works great. Heavier yarn knits up faster and the needles are easier to control.

Above all, whatever yarn you choose — make it something you love. This is a good mantra for all knitting, but even more so, in my opinion, when learning a new skill.

Set yourself up for success by working with a yarn that doesn’t ‘fight’ you and that you love to look at. For me this usually means a decent wool or wool blend. And it always means colorful.

Here’s what I’ll be using during this KAL.
This is a washable wool blend. It is teeny-tiny sock yarn. And it is destined to be knit up for my lovely hubby’s cold (without hand knit socks) feet.

I chose this for the KAL because it will be lovely to handle and lovely to look at. Additionally, though, there are more considerations for me. First this yarn is on the light/bright end of the spectrum. Lighter yarns are simply easier to see…especially in low light situations. Second, as this is a self-striping yarn the colors will morph. While this adds lots of satisfaction in watching it knit up…it serves a functional purpose — it helps to alert the knitter to mistakes.

For those who will be knitting 2@atime socks — you need two separate yarn sources. So either ball/cake those 2 skeins of yarn you love or take that one larger skein and split it in half (this is where I love having a good scale.)

Why? Each sock will be knit from a different ball/cake. Don’t worry, this is easier than it sounds. I should know….I avoided learning 2@atime for more than a year because I thought that fiddling with multiple strands would take all the fun away from sock knitting.
It didn’t.

How much yarn do I need?
100g of sock yarn can usually make a long-cuffed pair of socks for an adult size foot. So one large 100g skein or 2 50g skeins will be perfect.
For heavier weights? I’ve used 2 50g balls of worsted to make adult-size anklets — with some left over.

Needle Size — thickness

Here’s a photo of some of my collection of ‘sock needles’ — these range from size 1-4. That’s a strand of the chosen yarn snaking around them.

So what size should I use?
I look at the yarn.
Using a needle much thicker than the yarn will produce an ‘airy’ knit. Using a needle much thinner than the yarn will produce a very tight knit. Choose the needle thickness based on what you want to produce. Generally, though, using thicker needles will be easier to knit. This is especially the case for those who tend to be tight knitters. Sometimes going up a needle size is all it takes to get a better product. Relaxing the shoulders and all down the arms helps too.

Don’t try to knit a worsted yarn with size 0 needles.
And if you knit lace/fingering or sock yarn with size 17 needles, expect lacework.

Here are the two finalists for my KAL sock yarn:

These are 2.25mm and 2.50mm sock needles.
Though they are so close as to almost not differ, the 2.50mm suits my needs. It is just slightly thicker than the yarn itself. This will make an easy-to-work product that is not airy.

So, what I’m saying is first find a needle who’s thickness seems to match that of your yarn. Then decide if you want ‘floppy’ airy socks or tight gauge ones.

Needle Size — length

Go back to the Magic Loop tutorial.
Did you notice the cable?
See the loops?  That’s what Magic Loop is all about.
If the cable on your circular needle is too short, you’ll not be able to make sufficient loops. The 16″ cables just aren’t going to work.

What’s the minimum length for 2@atime sock knitting?
This is probably different for each knitter – I prefer 47″
I think I could use 36″ in a pinch, but it would be slower as I’d have to put more time and effort into not stretching the stitches.

Ok – that’s it for the preparation.

Your ‘homework’ over the next week or so is gather your supplies, watch those videos and do some test knitting.

If something I’ve posted is unclear or you have questions, please do post.

Next time — we start those socks!